This weblog is part of
looka, <lʊ´-kə> dialect, v.
1. The imperative form of the verb "to look"; in the spoken vernacular of New Orleans, it is usually employed when the speaker wishes to call one's attention to something.
2. --n. Chuck Taggart's weblog, hand-made and updated (almost) daily, focusing on food and drink, cocktails as cuisine, music (especially of the roots variety), New Orleans and Louisiana culture, news of the reality-based community ... and occasionally movies, books, sf, public radio, media and culture, travel, Macs, liberal and progressive politics, humor and amusements, reviews, complaints, the author's life and opinions, witty and/or smart-arsed comments and whatever else tickles the author's fancy.
Please feel free to contribute a link if you think I'll find it interesting. If you don't want to read my opinions, feel free to go elsewhere.Page last tweaked @ 1:40am PDT, 5/20/2009
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Comments RSS feedIf you like, you are welcome to send e-mail to the author. Your comments on each post are also welcome; however, right-wing trolls are about as welcome as a boil on my arse. Search this site:
"Doctors, Professors, Kings and Queens: The Big Ol' Box of New Orleans" is a 4-CD box set celebrating the joy and diversity of the New Orleans music scene, from R&B to jazz to funk to Latin to blues to zydeco to klezmer (!) and more, including a full-size, 80-page book. Buy my New Orleans music box set!
Produced, compiled and annotated by Chuck Taggart (hey, that's me!), liner notes by Mary Herczog (author of Frommer's New Orleans) and myself. Now for sale at your favorite independent record stores (such as the Louisiana Music Factory, because you should be supporting local New Orleans retailers) or via Amazon if you insist.
The box set was the subject of a 15-minute profile on National Public Radio's "Weekend Edition" on Feb. 6, 2005, and a segment on Wisconsin Public Radio's "To The Best of Our Knowledge" on Apr. 3, 2005. Here are some nice blurbs from the reviews (a tad immodest, I know; I'm not generally one to toot my own horn, but let's face it, I wanna sell some records here.)
* * * "More successfully than any previous compilation, Doctors... captures the sprawling eclecticism, freewheeling fun and constant interplay of tradition and innovation that is at the heart of Crescent City music." -- Keith Spera, New Orleans Times-Picayune.
"... if you DO know someone who's unfortunate enough to have never heard these cuts, press this monumentally adventurous box and its attendant booklet upon them. It's never too late to learn" -- Robert Fontenot, OffBeat magazine, New Orleans
"... the best collection yet of Louisiana music." -- Scott Jordan, The Independent, Lafayette, Louisiana.
"[T]he year's single most awesome package" -- Buddy Blue, San Diego Union-Tribune
"This four-CD box set doesn't miss a Crescent City beat ... For anyone who has enjoyed the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival, this is Jazz Fest in a box. ***1/2" -- Dave Hoekstra, Chicago Sun-Times
"... excellently compiled, wonderfully annotated ... New Orleans fans will know much of this by heart, though they may not remember it sounding so good; those who don't know what it's like to miss New Orleans will quickly understand." -- Terry Lawson, Detroit Free Press.
"... a perfect storm when it comes to reissues. This box set is musically exciting, a complete representation of its subject matter, and just plain fun to listen." -- Charlie B. Dahan, AllAboutJazz.com
"... one of the best impressions of a city's musical blueprint that you're likely to ever find." -- Zeth Lundy, PopMatters.com
"... an unacademic, uncategorized album that suits the city's time-warped party spirit." -- Jon Pareles, The New York Times
How to donate to this site: Your donations help keep this site going. PayPal's the best way -- just click the button below, and thanks!
You can also donate via the Amazon.com Honor System, if you wish (but they deduct a larger fee from your donation and I keep less).
(Also, here's a shameless link to my Amazon Wish List.)
Buy stuff! You can get Gumbo Pages designs on T-shirts, mugs and mousepads at The Gumbo Pages Swag Shop!
Looka! Archive
(99 and 44/100% link rot)2009: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May.
2008: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
2007: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
2006: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
2005: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
2004: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
2003: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
2002: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
2001: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
2000: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
1999: Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
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My Darlin' New Orleans...
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Greater N.O. Community Data Center
New Orleans Wiki
Media:
Gambit Weekly
NOLA.com & The Times-Picayune
OffBeat
Scat Magazine
WDSU-TV (Channel 6, NBC)
WGNO-TV (Channel 26, ABC)
WNOL-TV (Channel 38, WB)
WTUL-FM (91.5, Progressive radio)
WVUE-TV (Channel 8, FOX)
WWL-TV (Channel 4, CBS)
WWNO-FM (89.9, classical, jazz, NPR)
WWOZ-FM (90.7, Best Radio Station in the Universe)
WYES-TV (Channel 12, PBS)
New Orleans ...
proud to blog it home.
2 Millionth Weblog
A Frolic of My Own
Ashley Morris (in memoriam)
Blogging New Orleans
Dispatches from Tanganyika
Home of the Groove
Humid City
Library Chronicles
Mellytawn Dreams
Metroblogging N.O.
People Get Ready
Da Po'Blog
Suspect Device Blog
The Third Battle of New Orleans
World Class New Orleans
The Yat Pundit
Your Right Hand ThiefCocktail hour. "We are still heartily of the opinion that decent libation supports as many million lives as it threatens; donates pleasure and sparkle to more lives than it shadows; inspires more brilliance in the world of art, music, letters, and common ordinary intelligent conversation, than it dims." -- Charles H. Baker, Jr.
CocktailDB
The Internet's most comprehensive
and indispensible database of
authenticated cocktail recipes,
ingredients, reseearch and more.
By Martin Doudoroff & Ted Haigh)
Museum of the American Cocktail
Founded by Dale DeGroff and many
other passionate spirits in Jan. 2005.
Celebrating a true American cultural
icon: the American Cocktail.
(Their weblog.)
The Sazerac Cocktail
* * *
(The sine qua non of cocktails,
and the quintessential New Orleans
cocktail. Learn to make it.)
The Footloose Cocktail
(An original by Wes;
"Wonderful!" - Gary Regan.
"Very elegant, supremely
sophisticated" - Daniel Reichert.)
The Hoskins Cocktail
(An original by Chuck;
"It's nothing short of a
masterpiece." - Gary Regan)
* * * Chuck & Wes' Liquor Cabinet
(Frighteningly large, and would
never fit in a cabinet)
Chuck & Wes' Cocktail Book Collection
(Constantly growing)
Chuck & Wes' Cocktail Menu
(A few things we like to
drink at home, plus a couple
we don't, just for fun.)
* * * Peychaud's Bitters
(Indispensible for Sazeracs
and many other cocktails.
Order them here.)
Angostura Bitters
(The gold standard of bitters,
fortunately available everywhere
worldwide. Insist on it.)
Regans' Orange Bitters No. 6
(Complex and spicy orange
bitters for your Martinis,
Old Fashioneds and many more.
Order them here.)
Fee Brothers' Bitters
(Classic orange bitters,
peach bitters and a cinnamony
"Old Fashion" aromatic bitters,
plus new lemon & grapefruit bitters!)
The Bitter Truth
(A new brand of bitters
from Germany: orange, lemon,
aromatic bitters and more!)
Bittermens Bitters
(Fantastic new small-batch
bitters company with forth-
coming products including
Xocolatl Mole Bitters,
grapefruit, "tiki" spice,
and sweet chocolate bitters, wow! Due to launch 6/09)
* * * Alcademics
(Camper English)
Ardent Spirits
(Gary & Mardee Regan)
The Art of Drink:
An exploration of Spirits & Mixology.
(Darcy O'Neil)
Bar Mix Master
(Brad Ellis, New Orleans)
Beachbum Berry:
(Jeff Berry, world-class expert
on tropical drinks)
Bunnyhugs
(Seamus Harris, N.Z. & China)
The Chanticleer Society
(A worldwide organization of
cocktail enthusiasts.)
Charming Cocktails
(Cheryl Charming)
The Cocktail Chronicles
(Paul Clarke's weblog)
Cocktailians.com
(Group drinks blog by Vidiot,
Mr. Bali Hai, Kosmonaut,
Chico and me).
The Cocktail Circuit
(Joseph Mailander)
Cocktail Nerd
(Gabriel Szaszko)
Colonel Tiki's Drinks
(Craig Hermann, Portland OR)
A Dash of Bitters
(Michael Dietsch)
Dr. Bamboo
(Craig Mrusek, bring art and
alcohol together for a
better tomorrow!)
Drink A Week
(Alex and Ed)
DrinkBoston.com
(Lauren Clark)
DrinkBoy
(Robert Hess)
Drink Dogma
(Bobby Heugel, Anvil Bar & Refuge,
Houston, TX)
Drink Trader
(Online magazine for the
drink trade)
Esquire's Drinks Database
(Dave Wondrich and
his forbears)
Fine Spirits & Cocktails
(eGullet's forum)
Happy Hours
(Beverage industry
news & insider info)
Imbibe Magazine
(Celebrating the world in a glass. All-new site with recipes and back issues!)
In the Land of Cocktails
(Ti Adelaide Martin & Lally Brennan,
"The Cocktail Chicks," of Café Adelaide
& Commander's Palace, New Orleans)
Jeff Morgenthaler
(Bartender & mixologist, Portland, OR)
Jimmy's Cocktail Hour
(Jimmy Patrick)
Kaiser Penguin
(Rick Stutz, bringing us cocktails
and great photographs)
King Cocktail
(Dale DeGroff)
La Fée Verte
(All about absinthe
from Kallisti et al.)
Liquid Architecture
(Kim Haasarud)
The Liquid Muse
(Natalie Bovis-Nelsen)
LUPEC.org
(Ladies United for the
Preservation of
Endangered Cocktails)
The Ministry of Rum
(Everything you always wanted to know)
Le Mixeur
(The Munat Bros. host
cocktail gatherings in
Seattle, and write about them
here. I'm jealous that I can't go.)
The Mixoloseum
(Blog, cocktail chat online
& Thursday Drink Night!)
The Modern Mixologist
(Tony Abou-Ganim)
Moving at the Speed of Life
(Keith Waldbauer, Barrio, Seattle WA)
Mr. Lucky's Cocktails
(Sando, LaDove,
Swanky et al.)
Mr. Mixer
(Hundreds of cocktail recipes ...
in Hungarian. Well, why not?
Sajnos, nem beszélek magyarul.)
The Munat Bros.
(Seattle-based brothers and
ardent proponents of fine drinking.)
Off the Presses
(Robert Simonson)
Oh, Gosh!
(Jay Hepburn, London)
Rowley's Whiskey Forge
(Matt Rowley)
RumDood.com
(Matt Robold, The Rum Dood)
Save the Drinkers
(Kevin Kelpe, Boise, Idaho!)
Scofflaw's Den
(SeanMike Whipkey & Marshall Fawley)
Sloshed!
(Marleigh Riggins & Dan Miller)
Spirit Journal
(F. Paul Pacult)
Spirits and Cocktails
(Jamie Boudreau)
Spirits Review
(Chris Carlsson)
Tastings.com
(Beverage Tasting
Institute journal)
Thinking of Drinking
(Sonja Kassebaum, Chicago)
Trader Tiki's Booze Blog
(Blair Reynolds, Portland OR)
Two at the Most
(Stevi Deter, Seattle)
The Wormwood Society
(Dedicated to promoting accurate,
current information about absinthe)
* * * The Tiki-licious Luau Spirited Dinner, July 17, 2008
(Eleven dishes of wonder by Chef
Chris DeBarr, with fabulous
tropical cocktails by Jeff "Beachbum"
Berry and Wayne Curtis. Full review
of the 11-dish, 4-course meal, with
photos and recipes for all 5 drinks.)
Let's eat! New Orleans:
Appetites
Culinary Concierge (N.O. food & wine magazine)
Mr. Lake's Non-Pompous New Orleans Food Forum
The New Orleans Menu
Notes from a New Orleans Foodie
Food-related weblogs:
Bacontarian
Chocolate and Zucchini
Honest Cuisine
Il Forno
KIPlog's FOODblog
MeatHenge
Mise en Place
Sauté Wednesday
Simmer Stock
Tastespotting
Tasting Menu
Waiter Rant
More food!
à la carte
Chef Talk Café
Chowhound (L.A.)
eGullet
Epicurious
Food Network
The Global Gourmet
The Hungry Passport site and weblog)
A Muse for Cooks
The Online Chef
Practically Edible
Pasta, Risotto & You
Slow Food Int'l. Movement
Southern Food & Beverages Museum
Southern Foodways Alliance
So. Calif. Farmer's Markets
Zagat Guide
&c.
In vino veritas. Nat Decants (Natalie Maclean)
The Oxford Companion to Wine
Wine Enthsiast
The Wine Spectator
Wine Today
Wines.com
Zinfandel Advocates & Producers
Wine/spirits shops in our 'hood:
Colorado Wine Co., Eagle Rock
Mission Liquors, Pasadena
Silverlake Wine, Silverlake
Chronicle Wine Cellar, Pasadena
Other wine/spirits shops we visit:
Beverage Warehouse, Mar Vista
Wally's Wine & Spirits, Westwood
The Wine House, West L.A.
Reading this month:Lisey's Story, by Stephen King.
The Ghost Brigades, by John Scalzi.
In Defense of Food, by Michael Pollan.
Listen to music! Chuck's current album recommendations
Altan
BeauSoleil
Beck
Luka Bloom
La Bottine Souriante
Billy Bragg
Cordelia's Dad
Jay Farrar
The Frames
Kíla
Sonny Landreth
Los Lobos
Christy Moore
Nickel Creek
OK Go
The Old 97s
Anders Osborne
Planxty
The Proclaimers
Professor Longhair
Red Meat
The Red Stick Ramblers
The Reivers
Zachary Richard
Paul Sanchez
Marc Savoy
Son Volt
Richard Thompson
Toasted Heretic
Uncle Tupelo
Wilco
Tom Morgan's Jazz Roots
Miles of Music
New Orleans Bands.net
New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival
No Depression
RootsWorld
Appalachian String Band Music Festival - Clifftop, WV
Long Beach Bayou Festival
Strawberry Music Festival - Yosemite, CA
Talking furniture: WWOZ (New Orleans)
Broadcast schedule
Live audio stream
Bob Walker's New Orleans Radio Shrine
(A rich history of N.O. radio)
PublicRadioFan.com
(Comprehensive listings)
Air America Radio
(Talk radio for the
rest of us)
Folkscene
Joe Frank
Grateful Dead Radio
(Streaming complete
shows!)
KPIG, 107 Oink 5
(Freedom, CA)
KRVS Radio Acadie
(Lafayette, LA)
LouisianaRadio.com
Mike Hodel's "Hour 25"
(Science fiction radio)
Raidió Idirlíon
(Irish language & music)
Raidió na Gaeltachta
(Irish language)
RootsWorld's Rootsradio
RTÉ Radio Ceolnet
(Irish trad. music)
WXDU (Durham, NC)
Films seen this year:
(with ratings):In the cinema:
Frost/Nixon (****)
On DVD:
Close Encounters of the Third Kind: The Director's Cut (****)
Hellraiser: Bloodline (**)
Serenity (*****)
Third Man Out (***)
Lookin' at da TV: "Lost"
"Battlestar Galactica"
"ER"
"Smallville"
"One Tree Hill"
"Queer Eye for the Straight Guy"
"The Simpsons"
"Top Chef"
"Father Ted"
Photography: A Gallery for Fine Photography, New Orleans (Joshua Mann Pailet)
American Museum of Photography
California Museum of Photography, Riverside
International Center of Photography
Ansel Adams
Jonathan Fish
Noah Grey
Greg Guirard
Paul F. R. Hamilton
Clarence John Laughlin
Herman Leonard
Howard Roffman
J. T. Seaton
Jerry Uelsmann
Gareth Watkins
Brett Weston
The Mirror Project
(My pics therein: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7.)
My photographs at Flickr
Comix: The Abominable Charles Christopher
by Karl Kerschl
The Amazing Adventures of Bill,
by Bill Roundy
Bloom County / Outland / Opus,
by Berkeley Breathed
Bob the Angry Flower,
by Stephen Notley
The Boondocks,
by Aaron McGruder
Calvin and Hobbes,
by Bill Watterson
Doonesbury,
by Garry B. Trudeau
Electric Sheep Comix
by Patrick Farley
Get Your War On
by David Rees
Goats
by Jonathan Rosenberg
L. A. Cucaracha
by Lalo Alcaraz
Leviathan,
by Peter Blegvad
Lil' Abner,
by Al Capp
Lulu Eightball,
by Emily Flake
The Mostly Unfabulous Social Life of Ethan Green,
by Eric Orner
Pogo,
by Walt Kelly
Suspect Device,
by Greg Peters
Ted Rall,
by Ted Rall
This Modern World,
by Tom Tomorrow
XQUZYPHYR & Overboard,
by August J. Pollak
Must-reads:
Polly Ticks:
AlterNet.org (Progressive politics & news)
Daily Kos (My favorite political weblog)
Eschaton (The Mighty Atrios)
Hullaballoo (The Mighty Digby)
Media Matters for America (Debunking right-wing media lies)
Orcinus (David Neiwert)
PostSecret (Secrets sent in via postcards; astonishingly beautiful, funny and sad.)
Talking Points Memo (Josh Marshall)
TAPPED (The American Prospect Online)
Think Progress
TruthOut (William Rivers Pitt & Co.)
Miscellany::
Borowitz Report (Political satire)
The Complete Bushisms (quotationable!)
The Fray (Your stories)
Landover Baptist (Better Christians than YOU!)
Maledicta (The International Journal of Verbal Aggression)
The Morning Fix from SF Gate (Opinions, extreme irreverence)
The New York Review of Science Fiction
The Onion (Scarily funny news/satire)
"Rush, Newspeak and Fascism: An exegesis", by David Neiwert. (Read this.)
Whitehouse.org (Not the actual White House, but it should be)
Weblogs I read: Alicublog
AmericaBlog
American Leftist
BoingBoing
The BradLands
Cardhouse
The Carpetbagger Report
Cheesedip
Crabwalk
Franklin Avenue
Ghost in the Machine
Hit or Miss
Jesus' General
kottke.org
Making Light
Neil Gaiman's Journal
Not Right About Anything
NowThis.com
Pandagon
August J. Pollak
Sadly, No!
telescreen.org
This Modern World
Your Right Hand Thief
L.A. BlogsFriends with pages: bill
chris
dule
ellen
jon
jordan
mary
mary & rick
mary katherine
michael p.
nancy
peter
robb
sean
steve
ted
The Final Frontier: Astronomy Pic of the Day
ISS Alpha News
NASA Human Spaceflight
Spaceflight Now
SF: Locus Magazine Online
SF Site
SFWA
Déanta: This page is coded by hand, with BBEdit 4.0.1 on an Apple iMac 24" and a G4 15" PowerBook running MacOS X 10.5 if I'm at home; occasionally with telnet and Pico on a FreeBSD Unix host running tcsh if I'm updating from work. (I never could get used to all those weblogging tools.)
"Eating, drinking and carrying on..." -- Adelaide Brennan
Wednesday, May 20, 2009 Mixology Monday XXXIX: Amaro -- The Roundup!
Another Mixology Monday has come and gone, and now it's roundup time. Hoo,
3536 drinks! I had a blast going through these, and now that I've gotten everyone together in one post I feel I can go back through everything again without speed-reading them. Great work all around, y'all -- so many great new drinks, plus reminders of classics and old favorites. Let's get going.Paystyle at Umamimart was the first out the gate, bringing silver tequila (one of my favorite things) together with one of my favorite amari, Ramazzotti, with citrus, honey and herb for the Amaro Twilight, which looks to have a beautiful balance. Getting off to a great start already, and I can already see that my liver's going to go through the wringer trying all of these.
Tiare at A Mountain of Crushed Ice chimes in from Sweden with a drink in which she uses a mint version of Amaro Ramazzotti that I didn't even know existed. Oh dear, that's going to mean more expensive mail-ordering from Europe for me ... yay! The Menta Amaro is a simple but terrific-looking digestivo with this unusual amaro plus a bit of one more, given that two is often better than one.
Meaghan at Spirit Me Away offers us two drinks. First, a lovely "desserty" drink combining one of my favorite rums with Ramazzotti (lovin' all the Ramazzotti mixing going on!), coffee liqueur and cream for the Dolce Milano. Next she offers one based on Zwack liqueur, a re-branded lighter version of Unicum, Hungary's national drink and in its original version bitter as all get out. The newer "Zwack" (called "Unicum Next" in Europe" is a bitt less bitter with a cherry charateristic, and she combines that with Bourbon in the Zwack Morris (and was also apparently crushing on cute boys from "Saved by the Bell" back in her school days, apparently!).
Virginia Guilford, with whom I shared a lovely dinner at the home of Bistro 45's chef Damon Bruner and his wife Edith a while back, doesn't have a website of her own but was kind enough to contribute an original cocktail into the comments section. She created a Manhattan variation based on 3 whopping ounces of Woodford Reserve along with Amaro Montenegro, perhaps the gentlest amaro and what I've called a "gateway amaro," good for beginners. This drink has a lovely, gentle herbal flavor with only a touch of bitterness, and knocked us on our butts on Mixology Monday eve. Voilà, the Amaro Manhattan.
Jacob, a Portland bartender who writes at at Liquidity Preference, was inspired by one of my favorite cold evening dessert drinks (hot chocolate with a goodly shot of green Chartreuse) to make Menta e Cioccolato, swapping in Branca Menta. Oh boy, can't wait to try this one too!
Steve and Paul of Cocktail Buzz combined their MxMo drink with their entry for the Monteleone Hotel cocktail contest, striving to have it adopted as the hotel's signature drink while bringing more amaro to the masses. (It's a popular idea -- several Montelone entries I've seen, including mine, contain some form of amaro). Cognac and citrus are spiked with a dash of Fernet for the Steve's Monteleone contender.
Fred of Cocktail
VirginSlut wins the award for the most obscure amaro in the roundup, a Spanish product called Mandrágora based on mandrake root. (!) Some of its marketed properties (along the lines of pink elephants and making you a tiger in the sack) might be a bit exaggerated, but still ... given that ingredient's well-known magical properties, one has to wonder if the bottle screams when it's pulled from the bar shelf. Fred's offering is the Mandrágoni.Maria The Bubbly Girl offers one both frothy and fizzy based on Aperol, another great gateway bitter that I love to see cropping up in more and more cocktails. Among many others, her MxMo offering, The Aperol Flip, will be featured in her forthcoming book From The Bubbly Bar: Champagne & Sparkling Wine Cocktails for Every Occasion.
Jeff at Undertaking the Bar found himself rapidly approaching the posting day without a big selection of amari in his bar, and went for what was on hand -- our old friend Campari, which seems to be the bitter a lot of us discover first, and one that's more of an aperitivo, slapping your palate to attention before dinner. In the Italian Sunset Jeff uses Campari to lend complexity to Cognac and citrus.
Dinah at Bibulo.us goes right to the jugular of the obscure, with a smoky rhubarb-based amaro called Zucca Rarbarbaro. (Dammit, more expensive bottle shipping from the U.K. for me now, arrggh!) Fortunately she offers advice on how to approximate the flavor with another amaro tarted up with rhubarb bitters and liquid smoke (!), which might have to do for now. Her Walla Cocktail certainly seems worth the effort to either make the replica or find the real deal (and I'm likely to go for the latter, since I'm a "truly comical amaro nerd" too.)
My dear friend Marleigh of SLOSHED! goes for the Cynar, another amaro that never lasts long at our house, and shares with us an original recipe from one of our very favorite bartenders, the charming and talented Vincenzo Marianella. The Norma Jean is an amaro-spiked gin sour that's really terrific. You can sample this and myriad other creations of Vincenzo and his crew at his new bar Copa d'Oro in Santa Monica, a
very dangerousmere 7 minutes from my place of employment.
Blair, a.k.a. Trader Tiki, makes me seethe with envy for employing one of my most coveted Italian amari in his collection that has yet to make it into mine -- Amaro Nardini. Not only that, but he combines it with two other Italian amari in a nice big chewy base in what looks like a really exciting cocktail I can't wait to try, the Amici Cattivi (Bad Friends ... heh). Fortunately Blair's a very good friend, not the least of which for offering us this inky-dark, deliciously evil looking (in the best possible way) cocktail that'll be tops on my list once I get up off my lazy butt and grab me some Nardini.
Blair's also hosting a conribution from his friend and fellow Portland bartender David Shenaut of The Teardrop Lounge, whose drinks I've enjoyed from afar thanks to his generous sharing of recipes. I hope to be warming a barstool in front of him in due time, as we're OVERdue for a visit to Portland. David gives us the most entertaining drink name of the roundup, the tequila-based, Cynar-laced Nevermind the Bollocks with a couple more unusual ingredents I'm now gonna want to find.
Mike from A Dash of Bitters tries one of the newest amari in my own collection, the one in the sexy slender bottle called Amaro Mio from Lorenzo Inga Distillery in Piemonte. Gin, sloe gin and some gorgeous-looking lemon balm come together in the Bitter Wood Cocktail, which might just win today's award for prettiest garnish.
Jay of Oh Gosh! checks in from across the pond with two drinks, one from one of his favorite bartenders and another from one of mine. Although so far I haven't had the chance to see him in his home base of New York, I've gotten to spend some time with Chad Solomon in his visits to Los Angeles and to New Orleans during Tales and to enjoy his drinks as well. Jay shares one of Chad's the we make frequently at home, the Bensonhurst, as well as the other cocktail that got Wes and me tanked on the evening of Mixology Monday. Jay's featured several cocktails from Gonçalo de Sousa Monteiro of Berlin, and his Negroni variation called the Berlioni is a Cynar-y delight.
Craig, a.k.a. Dr. Bamboo, takes us on an exotic journey (and illustrates it with a guy in a blimp with goggles and a big moustache to help us feel the trip) with both Aperol and Cynar and a new (to me) Thai liqueur called Mekhong. I'd seen it in our local spirits emporium and was skeptical, thinking it a new marketing idea from a guy in a suit rather than a spirit that came organically from the culture, but I was wrong. There's some history behind Mekhong -- it's been around since 1941. Upon further reading I was fascinated by its base being both cane and rice spirits; its flavor is described as "spicy toffee with citrus and vanilla." Craig rather likes it, and bases his Blimps Over Bangkok with equal parts Mekhong and London dry gin. Sigh, more liquor to buy ...
Stevi of Two at the Most, whom I had the pleasure to meet and hang out with on our recent trip to Seattle (the first of many), reaches for one of my very favorite bitters, the Sicilian amaro called Averna (and the first Averna cocktail of the roundup!). This is a mid-range amaro, one to step up to after mastering Aperol or Montenegro, which you will most certainly enjoy as it helps lead you to the hard stuff (like Fernet). Her riff on the French 75 is called the Santo Spirito, a lovely name for a drink.
Now that Stevi has primed the Averna pump, it begins to flow freely. Bruce of World Wide Drinks brings it out for a citrusy fizz whose name is inspired by the biggest event in his hometown, the Indianapolis 500. If you're last in line to qualify and don't have a good enough time, you're "bumped." Ah well, the driver can always console him- or herself with Bruce's citrusy fizz called the Bitter Bump. (No permalink, but you shouldn't have to scroll back too far unless months have gone by as you're reading this ...)
My friend Andy at (dr)Ink Gorilla joins MxMo for the first time. Welcome, Andy! Watch out, it's addictive. He offers us a variation on the Fernet Cocktail, varying the bitters and syrup, and winning the award for today's heftiest dose of what's probably the heftiest amaro of them all (at least the ones we see on these shores). This one's for hardcore amaro-lovers.
Amari and other drinking bitters all tend to have a similar formula -- alcohol, some combination of herbs, sugar and caramel coloring (with a certain amount of color coming from the herbs themselves). There are of course countless variations in this formula, including the herbs which provide the bitter elements. Christian of Cocktailwelten decided to go for the herbal end rather than the bitter end, and offers us a B&B Collins. Sein Beitrag ist in Deutsch, so unless you read German you'll need to run it through a translator.
Jake the Drinksnob at Liquor is Quicker went for a product I've read about but have yet to try. China Martini ("china" is pronounced "KEE-na") is produced by Martini & Rossi and is a Calisaya-style bitters. Calisaya, china calissaia, cinchona ... all different terms for quinine, which is what provides the bitterness here. As I understand it China Martini is a liqueur at 31%, rather than the quinine-infused wines known as quinquina or chinato. I'd love to get my hands on some of this stuff, especially now that I'm inspired by Jake's purported hangover cure (which looks quite tasty) that he calls Il Cane Nero.
Ouroboros at Blotto, the Journal of the North American Booze Council (who sound as if they should be running the country) offers us yet another Portlander concoctaion using not one but two amari. Portland beckons me ... I like how they do things up there. I due amari marry rye (because what the world needs now is more rye cocktails) for the Cryptic Memo, which comes to us from Kelley Swenson, the head bartender at Ten 01. (Note to self: Add to list of Portland bars to haunt.)
Nat at The Alpha Cook offers an adaptation of the Black Manhattan, Averna-tinged Manhattan variation she first encountered at Bourbon and Branch in San Francisco. This version takes it a step further, spiced with Nat's own housemade Apple-Clove Bitters. (And yep, you get to learn how to make that, too).
Craig at Colonel Tiki's Drinks offers us his first drink using tequila, and it's a great month to do so -- I love how tequila marries with bitter ingredients. He's combined two amari also and some lovely ingredients for yet another that I can't wait to try, the Amaro Amigo. I've got a lovely cinnamon tincture at home (sticks of Indonesian, toasted and soaked in Wray & Nephew Overproof Rum for 3 weeks) that's crying out to go into this drink, yum.
Sonja of North Shore Distillery, who writes at Thinking of Drinking, is the only one to bring out the Amer Picon (yay!) and whips up two variations on a classic near and dear to my heart, the venerable Picon Punch, one of my most beloved bitter tipples, which is also incredibly refreshing. She uses the current version of authentic Amer Picon (the "Club" version, which is intended to be mixed with wine) as well as the American replica Torani Amer, recently reformulated to taste much like the original Amer Picon, before the proof was cut in half and the recipe changed into the Club and Bière versions.
Sam (a.k.a. Vidiot) writes about cocktails at the group blog Cocktailians, where I am also a contributor but feel horribly guilty for not having contributed anything in a while. (Mea culpa, mea culpa, mea maxima culpa ... *thump chest* ... ow. Believe me, I'm wearing sackcloth in penance as I write (and promise to get my butt in gear and contribute again soon). I feel even guiltier for having foiled his plans to work with rye and mole bitters by posting my own such cocktail early. (I wasn't emitting dastardly laughs, rubbing my hands or twirling my moustache, honestly. I don't even have a moustache.) Fortunately this spiked Sam's creativity and we get yet another lovely cocktail named for a New York neighborhood. The famous borough drinks, plus the Red Hook and Little Italy and Bensonhurst are now joined by The Astoria, with rye (yay!), Ramazzotti and three different fruit bitters by the dash. You knocked that one right out of Shea Stadium, Sam.
Contending for the final entry at 11:59:50 on Monday night, my friend Chris, an L.A. bartender who also writes about his craft and obsession at Blueprint Cocktail, went nuts with one of my favorites, Amaro Nonino, and had a long night of cocktail-creating fun, offering us three Nonino cocktails -- a tangy Friuli Fizz, a chamomile-scented, Nonino-spiked rye sour simply called the Nonino Sour and the Marmalady, which brings in a powerful smoky Scotch and kumquats ... wow. (Hmm, is it just coincidence or was Chris reading John Lennon's poetry when naming that last one? "He is putting it lithely when he says / Quobble in the grass / Strab he down the soddieflays / Amo amat amass; / Amonk amink amnibus / A marmalaidie moon ..." Sorry, my mind works in odd ways and that just popped out of it.)
But no, not to be outdone ... Paul Clarke of The Cocktail Chronicles, the guy who got the wacky idea to start this whole MxMo thing, makes it in quite literally at the stroke of midnight as the bells were still chiming, and like Steve combines his MxMo entry with his entry into the Monteleone cocktail contest. It's a superb-looking blend of rye, Aperol, vermouth, crème de cacao and Peychaud's bitters that I also can't wait to try, appropriately named the Two Birds, which is a great name for a drink (well, unless it ends up being called The Monteleone). He's right indeed, I am a bitter man -- well no, I'm a bitters man. I think you're beginning to get the idea that this is a good thing.
Then after Paul finishes at midnight come the procrastinators ... yes, my people!
My good friend Matt the Rumdood made it in at a respectable 12:18am on Mixology, um, Tuesday (and yes dude, I would indeed have teased you mercilessly had you not participated!) offers us a drink that was more than worth the 18-minute wait. Chris Hannah is one of the very best bartenders in the city of New Orleans, plying his art and craft at the French 75 Bar at the venerable Creole institution, Arnaud's Restaurant. The Bywater is quite possibly my favorite of Chris' drinks, for many reasons -- it's named after the old Ninth Ward neighborhood where my family is from, it's based on aged rum (coming from Matt I'd expect no less), contains a healthy dose of my beloved Chartreuse as well as one of my favorite amari that reflects the city's Sicilian population. All that and a pretty garnish too. I'm very glad Matt's helping this drink get more attention.
Mike of My Aching Head brings stumbled across a drink that seems to be longtime classic by its flavor -- how could this combination of ingredients not have been around for decades? -- and its popularity, but was in fact invented by Paul Harrington in the 1990s. Robert Hess was the first person I know of to begin popularizing this lovely tipple, the Campari-based Jasmine. Harrington's added some kind of magic to this drink too, an undefinable, non-tangible bit of something that makes it taste like it's been around for decades.
Finally, a brief re-mention of my own contribution, the Eagle Rock Cocktail, based on rye and featuring Amaro Borsci San Marzano with the forthcoming (July!) Bittermens Xocolatl Mole Bitters. It's deep and dark and bitter and just slightly sweet with hints of dried fruit, cherry, spice and chocolate. I kinda like it.
Aaaaaand ... that's it! I think. Gabriel is threatening to add a post, although I haven't yet received it and don't think my title of God Emperor of Procrastination is in any danger. Well, actually ... I got this Gargantuan roundup posted only two days later. I might end up being a mere Sandtrout of Procrastination. Sigh.
[UPDATE on Mixology Wednesday!] Gabriel came through first thing this morning. We have a new God Emperor, and soon his entire skin will be covered with tipsy, hiccupping sandtrout. Unsurprisingly, it was worth the wait. Gabe, in weary traveller mode, wandered into San Francisco's Heaven's Dog, where bartender Erik Ellestad (whom I'm glad to see in this roundup, even indirectly) was asked to make something with Nonino, yet dry and refreshing. The resulting Upward Dog pleased him immensely, and sounds like one we'll return to at home.
Again, thanks a million to everyone who participated. I've got a frakload of drinks to make now.
Permalink.[ Link to today's entries ]
Monday, May 18, 2009 Mixology Monday XXXIX: Amaro. Greetings, felicitations and welcome to MxMo 39! Entries are beginning to trickle in, and I expect a veritable flood of them as the day goes on. Besides posting your entry on your own blog, please post a comment to this topic (and as a backup, email me at mr.sazerac at gmail dot com), and please try to do so by midnight tonight -- well, at least in your time zone. I won't start doing the roundup until tomorrow, and I hope to have it up by Wednesday.
In case you missed the announcement post here or MixologyMonday.com, the theme for this month is amaro -- bitter liqueurs generally intended to consume after a meal as a digestive, typical of but certainly not limited to Italy, and the use of those bitters in cocktails. Why did I choose this topic? Because over the last several years I have become an amaro freak.
It's been a long journey since 2000, when I took my first sip of Fernet Branca -- such a baptism of fire for my first experience with amaro! Sadly, no camera was present to capture the look on my face after taking my first sip, nor was a recorder running to note what was certainly some choice language. In the ensuing years, after samplng more gentle amari and working my way up, I finally had my amaro epiphany, which was the day when I started drinking Fernet Branca not strictly for medicinal purposes after overindulging my tummy, but for pleasure and enjoyment. Now my amaro collection is pretty decent, if I do say so myself (and ripe for expansion): Amaro Abano, Amaro Cora, Amaro Meletti, Amaro Mio Lorenzo Inga, Amaro Montenegro, Amaro Nonino, Amaro Ramazzotti, Amaro di Santa Maria al Monte di NIcola Uignale, Amer Boudreau, Amer Picon Club, Aperol, Averna, Campari, Cynar, Fernet Branca, Gammel Dansk, Jeppson's Malört, Maraska Pelinkovac, Suze, Torani Amer, Underberg and Zwack Unicum ... plus one more which is my most recent acquisition.
Borsci Elisir San Marzano was one I'd seen passing references to but had never tried until a few bottles showed up at The Wine House, one of my two major spirits emporia and where a significant chunk of my paycheck is deposited every other week. I took it home, poured some into our nice little amaro sipping glasses, and lit up. It's on the milder end of the amaro spectrum, more hefty than Montenegro, which is my mildest, but one that I thought might be appealing to amaro newbies. The bitter herbs and sweetness are in perfect balance, but there's a lot more going on in this liqueur -- dried fruits, especially figs and plums, touches of chocolate and coffee as well. The liqueur's been around since 1840, developed in Puglia, Italy by Giuseppe Borsci in the tradition of herbal liqueurs developed by European monks.
I looked it up and found interesting recipes on Borsci's website, although none for cocktails, oddly enough. The first recipe (which I also found in its listing on LeNell's website was to soak fresh cherries in it, which sounds fantastic. Grapes were recommended for soaking in a simliar fashion, and there was a fascinating procedure for layering almond-stuffed dried figs with chocolate flakes in a jar, then filling with Borsci amaro. There was Borsci tiramisù, Borsci birthday cake, Borsci over strawberries and even over ice cream. All looked good, yet still no cocktails. I seem to have stumbled across my first dessert amaro.
However, it's recommended chilled or in long drinks as an aperitivo, plus at room temperature as an excellent digestivo, which after several such after-dinner tipplages I can assure you it is, although not as powerfully medicinal as some other amari. After my first sips, though, I started thinking about how I'd use this in a cocktail.
The first thing that came to me was a Manhattan variation. There are several such variations out there that feature various amari (The Red Hook and Little Italy, both favorites, to name two), but it seemed to me that this amaro would work particularly well with a powerful rye base. The hints of chocolate in the this amaro's flavor base led me to want to pair it with something similar, but by no means did I want this drink to be too sweet, or gods forbid, something desserty. Flavors that would lend itself to an after-meal cocktail, sure, or a lead-in to dessert, but not a "dessert cocktail" per se. Crème de cacao, even the less cloyingly sweet version from Marie Brizard, would be right out, and the only ingredient that seemed right was, oddly enough, something I had never tasted.
Those of us who are bitters fanatics have been waiting with bated breath for the eventual release of the products being developed and produced by the newest cocktail bitters company, Bittermens. They'd been working on a tantalizing and exciting range of products ranging from "tiki" bitters to grapefruit and pecan bitters, but the one that got my scalp tingling in anticipation was their "Xocolatl Mole" chocolate spice bitters. As they described them: "Inspired by the classic Mexican chocolate mole sauce, this bitters recipe highlights tequila, aged rum and whiskey cocktails. Try substituting these bitters in a Manhattan, or adding to a Margarita." Holy crapola. I was tremendously excited to hear about this, and disappointed to hear of delay after delay due, oddly enough, not to difficulties vetting them with the TTB, but with local and state health and production permits. And after tasting the Borsci, even though I had never tasted Bittermens Mole Bitters, I knew this was just what my tentative Borsci cocktail needed. (Unless I was completely wrong.)
To add to my frustration, Bittermens sent out a number of samples to bartenders (naturally) and to a few cocktail writers, none of which included me. (Well, other folks to get higher readership, so it made perfect sense.) That didn't help my writhing jealousy as I read my friend Paul Clarke's glowing review of his sample of these bitters a year ago January. I was Chartreuse with envy, but knew I just had to wait. Once my taste of Borsci came along, I must confess I grew more impatient -- this stuff would go great with Borsci in a cocktail, I just knew it. Bittermens posted periodic updates, and it looked as if we'd finally be able to get our hands on a fully released product a bit later this year ... but not in time for my idea for a drink that would be perfect for the MxMo topic I suggested for my turn to host.
Well, all ended well with Wes' and my long-overdue visit to see all our friends in Seattle in April, and Paul very graciously and generously offered me a small sample from his sample bottle of bitters so I could see if my idea would work. Y'know what? It worked. I'm just a lucky so-and-so ... thanks a million, Paul!
I was pretty happy with the drink as I had conceived it, but thought it neede one more little boost, just a tad of Cherry Heering to offer that compementary cherry flavor without making it too sweet -- we get more than enough of that from the amaro itself, and the vermouth. I'm pretty happy with this, and as the Manhattan got to be named after a borough in New York, and as I was lucky enough to get to create a drink named for part of Los Angeles a while back, I wanted to have one named after my own neighborhood.
So ... I must confess that it's a bit unfair that you can't quite make this drink yourself yet, unless you get to one of a number of bars that have Bittermens Xocolatl Mole Bitters on hand (that'd be Zig Zag and Vessel in Seattle; Alembic, Absinthe, Coco 500 and Range in San Francisco; Death & Co., Milk and Honey, Little Branch, PDT, Bourgeois Pig, Mayahuel or Tailor in NYC; Eastern Standard, Drink, Hungry Mother or Craigie on Main in Boston; or Montgomery Place, The Lonsdale, Milk and Honey or The Purple Bar at the Sanderson Hotel in London) or unless you get invited to Paul Clarke or Robert Hess' house to name but two, you'll have to wait until July to try this drink the way I envisioned it -- that's when Bittermens plans to finally release their product (yay!). That's only six weeks away, though, and I think it'll be worth the wait. Don't worry, I'll noodge you again when the time comes.
Use a big rye for this. We're deeply, madly in love with the bonded 100 proof Rittenhouse rye, which is a fantastic product, priced between $16-18 and without a doubt the best rye value on the market. After that try Wild Turkey 101 rye, and we're even tempted to give this one a go with Thomas Handy.
The Eagle Rock Cocktail
2 ounces Rittenhouse 100 proof bonded rye whiskey.
1/2 ounce sweet vermouth (Carpano Antica or Vya).
1/2 ounce Amaro Borsci San Marzano.
1 scant barspoon Cherry Heering.
2-3 goodly dashes Bittermens Xocolatl Mole Bitters.
Combine with ice in a mixing glass and stir for 30 seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a Luxardo cherry.
I love one of these after work, and I also liked it after dinner, leading into a big chocolate dessert -- I thought it was a lovely transition. I hope you enjoy it too, once those bitters come out! In the meantime, maybe try it with a dash of Fee's Whiskey Barrel-Aged Bitters, but that cacao spice you get from the Bittermens really does make this drink.
To all the participants in MxMo Amaro, thanks for all your entries so far! We tried a couple last nigiht and got luxuriously toasted. Everyone else, please get your entries posted on your own sites with a comment here by midnight tonight, and I'll get to work on the roundup.
Permalink.[ Link to today's entries ]
Friday, May 15, 2009 The Monteleone Cocktail Contest -- My entry. Well, here's hoping this drink gets to be called this for good. As you may recall from previous posts over the past couple of weeks, the Monteleone Hotel in New Orleans is hosting a cocktail contest for their new signature drink, in honor of the 60th anniversary of their legendary and venerable Carousel Bar. The competition will no doubt be as stiff as the drinks, so wish me luck!
While I wasn't really using the hotel's other signature drink, the Vieux Carré, as a jumping-off point, I did want to have rye as a base spirit. As it turned out, there's a slight similarity between the drinks in some of the proportions, but this goes off in a different direction, with a balance of bitter and sweet and spicy and malty that Wes and I both really liked. Here's hoping you like it too (not to mention the contest judges!).
The Monteleone Cocktail
(Tentatively named pending cocktail contest results.)Rue Royale
(Renamed, as another cocktail was chosen for the contest winner)1 ounce Sazerac Rye (6 Year).
1 ounce Bols Genever.
1 ounce Dolin Vermouth Blanc.
1/2 ounce Averna.
2 dashes Peychaud's Bitters.
1 dash Regans' Orange Bitters No. 6.
Orange peel.
Combine ingredients with cracked ice and stir for 30 seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail coupe and garnish with the orange peel after giving it a mighty twist.The rye is there to provide a solid foundation of whiskey and spice, and is there for New Orleans. I was fascinated by the combination of whiskey and genever, which the malty, whiskey-like characteristic of this genever in particular. (My original idea was to try this with Ransom Old Tom Gin, a new barrel-aged Old Tom co-developed by David Wondrich, which I tasted in Seattle and went mad for, but it's not available yet.) I wanted an aromatized wine as a moderator, and the newly-imported Dolin Blanc is a fantastic product I've fallen completely in love with. It's a sweet white vermouth, along the lines of a bianco from Cinzano or Martini & Rossi but with a really tremendous flavor, and with the sweetness held back a bit. The Averna is because I love amaro, because wanted a pleasantly bitter element which the Dolin helps balance well, and also to honor the Sicilian heritage of Signor Antonio Monteleone, the founder of the hotel. Peychaud's for spice and for the city, and as I was trying out early incarnations and got close, we thought it needed one little extra bit of brightness, which the orange bitters provide.
Well, that's my story, anyway, and I'm sticking to it.
If it doesn't win I'll still keep making it, and it'll just get renamed. Maybe I'll call it the Antonio, after Signor Monteleone. But let's not get ahead of ourselves; I'd rather it be called the Monteleone.
UPDATE, 5/22/2009: Alas, another cocktail won the contest, but I think this drink is a keeper. It's being renamed the "Rue Royale." (Thanks to Wes for the name suggestion!) And congratulations to contest winner Brian Robinson of The Wormwood Society.
[ Link to today's entries ]
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